need an advise on winterizing

[roman]

Hey guys i need an advise on winterizing the bike.  I live in WI and bike is going to be kept in a NOT heated though garage. Cleaned the chain and lubed (chain wax) it. Brand new oil and rode the bike 2day for few miles to run it through.Put full gas tank with fuel (93 with ethanol, which i heard actually can do some damage  to.... i think fuel lines, but i am not sure). My buddy owns a boat and after long winter i think his fuel lines where bad and thats where i think i heard bout the ethanol doing no good to it.  For some reason i do not like an idea putting fuel stabilizer but i will consider if some of you had an experience using that product. It's super hard now to find fuel with no ethanol here Rear is on a stand but don't know if i will get the Pitbull front stand yet. Also will get the battery out. Am i missing anything ? What do you guys do to winterize... Oh... yeah and a cover is on
Thank you. 

[cosmo]

you did pretty much all you need to do. i don't bother with fuel stabilizer either, and i have no issues after a few months. batter is best if put on a tender. as for the wheel that isn't on the stand, i saw some riders putting their tire on a piece of wood, and rotating it every week or so to keep it from deforming. it's a bike, not a pie, it won't "go bad" after a few days

i also suggest a dust cover or a blanket or something. it's more to prevent accidental scratches and stuff then anything else.

just don't try to start it in winter to "warm it up" at iddle. the condensation rezulting is worse then just letting it there. only start it when you want to ride it for at least a few miles.

[Rjunky]

dont forget winterizing means "modding"

[excat]

If your not going to use fuel stabilizer, FILL your tank to the brim (or really close to it). It will prevent condensation from forming in the tank. As cosmo said, avoid starting it unless you are actually going to ride, then make sure you top back off. There is nothing wrong with using fuel stabilizer, though. I ride year round, if it's above freezing and no moisture on the ground, I'll ride. I've always heard of people doing good with Sta-bil brand fuel stabilizer. If you have a lot of bugs or rodents...anything like that in the garage you'll be keeping it in, stick a white cloth (or brightly colored) in the exhaust end so critters can't gain access to nest in your exhaust. Use a bright color so it catches your eye when you go to start it next!

[roman]

Thanks guys again. 

[WE_GOT_THAT_TOO]

Here is the easiest solution...come down to Cali and just ride 5 days out of the week throughout all of winter! 

[Nihon Newbie]

Sorry to just drop this and run, but it might help supplement what you have already done. Good luck!

http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcycle/how_to/mc_storage.html

[Jason748]

Being in the same region (I'm over in MN), I've done this a few times.
My list for my street bikes that are kept in unheated storage are as follows.
1. A good wash.
2. Oil change
3. Coolant flush with 50/50 mix anti-freeze & water, with a little Water wetter added in.
4. Full tank of gas
5. Bike up on stands, Front and rear.  I would strongly recommend a front stand, but if not get a couple pieces of 2" or thicker foam (4" total) and put it under the front wheel, this will minize flat spotting of the tire
6. Pull the battery , bring it inside and put it on a maintainer for the winter. Don't set it directly in contact with bare concrete and don't put if above anything of value (just in case something happens).
7. Clean the chain - and wipe down with a wax.
8. Do any other minor maintenance things you've been putting off (brake fluid flush, pads, sprockets, etc...).
9. Don't move the bike or impact tires at or below approx 10 degrees, they can easily be damaged.
10. Plug both the exhaust & intake.

Personally on the fuel thing... I've had a couple bad experiences with sta-bil fuel stabilizer and won't touch it anymore.  The last few years I've been running CRC Phasegaurd 4, another good one is MDR E-Zorb, but it's significantly more expensive.  Both will combat fuel separation and eliminate/reduce the effects of ethanol on the system.  One major thing to remember about fuel treatments is that you need to run the bike for 5-15 min to ensure it get all the way into the system.

[roman]

Here is the easiest solution...come down to Cali and just ride 5 days out of the week throughout all of winter! 

  trust me i have thought about it...

[roman]

@Jason748  i can do everything for and exception of #3 and #8.    Don't know how to do coolant flush. Though i know i can do brakes (fluid, pads) myself.  Sprockets and chain would be more difficult since i don't have much of a tools too.  How often do you guys recommend to change the chain? I know chains do get loose and you tighten them up but what would be the rule of thumb? (miles or when its very stretched out) .  i am a rookie i guess you can tell that 

[cosmo]

check for slack everytime you lube it as a rule of thumb. it takes a couple seconds, and you're already handling it :-P (giggity). tighten it when it gets out of shape (normal slack is mentioned in the user manual)

[cbrSHAMU]

Speaking of the manual, I know this has been brought up many times but since I'm at work, I'll try not to spend too much time looking for it. Can anyone throw up a link for a downloadable version of the service manual? Something updated for a 2011 model?

[Jason748]

If you can flush/bleed brakes... you can flush your coolant.  It's pretty much: drain, fill,heat cycle (to get the T-stat open) drain, fill, heat cycle, Purge the system of air, top off.

[vic himself]

I always lube my kickstand and any mechanical components, and tire pressures if you don`t have stands.

[Rjunky]

keep it inside next to your bed