Hot bike wont turn over with start button?

[bame]

although i didnt read all 8 pages of this topic i did read a good amount... mostly speculation though. all i know is that my bike hasnt restarted 3 times lately. twice while it was 200+ an once jsut now at 170. i guess my question is how do our bikes recharge the battery? do we have alternators? or do we have to be moveing at high speeds to recharge. i ask this because im a student an live on campus so during the week a lot of my trips are really short an i dont go past 20mph. so i figure maybe im just slowly draining the battery.

[rjh200]

Typically the battery does not charge well below 5-6k rpms. 

[PaikyPoo]

although i didnt read all 8 pages of this topic i did read a good amount... mostly speculation though. all i know is that my bike hasnt restarted 3 times lately. twice while it was 200+ an once jsut now at 170. i guess my question is how do our bikes recharge the battery? do we have alternators? or do we have to be moveing at high speeds to recharge. i ask this because im a student an live on campus so during the week a lot of my trips are really short an i dont go past 20mph. so i figure maybe im just slowly draining the battery.

yes, the rr comes with an alternator.  u should be at least 3k rpms to get any sort of charging to the battery.  5k+ is optimal.  sitting at idle drains the battery.  i suggest riding around campus with your highbeam off.  other then that... take her out on a streat with at least a 35mph limit and ride around for 10 minutes or so.

[Greg2561]

I  did not post a follow up, but I replaced the R/R, part number 31600-MV4-010 on Oct. 12, 2004. (see my first post on 10/10/04 on page 8. That was the problem, no doubt about it. I also put 2 CPU cooling fans around it to keep it from getting too hot. I have decided to leave the volt meter up on the guage cluster. It is small enough not to be a nuicance, and I like to be able to see where the volts are.

These posts that are saying that the battery will not charge below 5-6k rpm are totally false. Sitting at idle and or riding at 2-3k rpm WILL NOT DRAIN THE BATTERY! I don't care what any manual or mechanic says, the volt meter doesn't lie.

After replacing the rectifier, at an idle of about 1100 rpm, my volts are between 13.6 and 14.1 VDC. At 6k rpm and about 100 mph, I am between 13.8 and 14.2. During a hot Miami day cruising South Beach, I can be at idle with the fan on and still be at about 13.2 + VDC.  I have never seen it above 14.4. If your battery is fairly good, and your bike is not restarting, you better check the R/R. The easiest way is to rig a voltmeter, the one I got is from Autozone, you can see a picture of it here: http://www.cetsolar.com/voltmeter.htm   

I used a cigarette lighter extension plug, and ran wires from my battery, under the tank, up under the guage cluster with the plug end just behind the tach. Then I put a piece of velcro in between the tach and speedo and mounted it right there.

With the bike off and battery charged, you should get between 12.3 to 13.3 VDC. Start it up and ride around for at least 30 minutes. If your volts ever drop below 12.6, your R/R is bad. It may take some time to see it drop, or it may happen right away. With mine, it would start after about 10 minutes of riding, regardless if it was on the expressway at 80+ mph, or in stop and go traffic.

You can get them at the dealer for about $125 to $150, or if you can wait a week or so, you can get it here for $70 + s/h. http://www.mugen571.com/RVF400RegRecUpdate.html

I hope this resolves any questions about this common problem with the R/R.

[bame]

whats the R/R again?

[cpchillin]

Regulator /Rectifier. The bike's "alternator", which is called a stator, makes AC voltage. The R/R turns it into DC!

[bame]

i think i might just have a short... im thinking it might be from the new front blinkers i put in. in the past i have proven to have sloppy wire work. . . maybe some wires are touching metal, would this cause a lost of electricity?

[NewRedRider]

i think i might just have a short... im thinking it might be from the new front blinkers i put in. in the past i have proven to have sloppy wire work. . . maybe some wires are touching metal, would this cause a lost of electricity?

Yes

[aren]

Have you guys or Honda sorted the problem yet? I'm really interested in what's causing the bike to not start because our Daytona 600s have the EXACT same issue. When the bike gets to 220-230 F, it starts to bog down a bit. For some people the bike will shut off completely. And then the bike will not start.

It hasn't happened to me, but sometimes the bike will turn off at take-off when it's getting really hot. Usually when I'm at a stoplight for awhile. I experience the bogging down a lot, though.

Do you guys get any of the bogging at low revs when it gets super hot?

[600DubRizzle]

Have you guys or Honda sorted the problem yet? I'm really interested in what's causing the bike to not start because our Daytona 600s have the EXACT same issue. When the bike gets to 220-230 F, it starts to bog down a bit. For some people the bike will shut off completely. And then the bike will not start.

It hasn't happened to me, but sometimes the bike will turn off at take-off when it's getting really hot. Usually when I'm at a stoplight for awhile. I experience the bogging down a lot, though.

Do you guys get any of the bogging at low revs when it gets super hot?

Your issue sounds more like a fuel pressure problem than an electrical problem.  Your bike is most likely experiencing vapor lock in the fuel line, creating a lean air/fuel ratio when the temperature gets too high.

[bame]

my prob was a semi dead bat... didnt like the consistant short trips to class.... got it fixed a while ago, charged the bat an its been a few months now with no problems.... not that this is the same problem as the heat issue.. but it could be.

[BoraBora]

I have a 2004 CBR600RR.  I have had it since I bought it new in January '04.  It has the new style rectifier with the cooling fins and the heat shield.  I always ride with the high beams on.  I have never had starting issues until September of 2006. 

I rode about 30 miles, on the highway, got off, was stuck in slow moving traffic for about 10 minutes, then pulled into a gas station.  The ambient temp was about 80 and the bike's gauge read about 210.
After filling up with gas, I pushed the starter to be greeted by a very slow crank.  Too slow to crank the engine over.  I pushed the bike out of the way to the side and tried again.  The starter would not turn anymore.  I looked at the lights and they were bright.  I hit the horn and it was loud.  I thought that was weird.
Anyway, I push started it and rode 30 miles back home on the highway.  I pulled into my garage, turned the bike off, then tried to restart it.  The starter would not turn. 
A few hours later, I went to try to start the bike and it turned over like it had a brand new battery.

The weather cooled down after that and I never had any starting issues after that.  Then it happened once with the temp at about 195.  The starter cranked very slow but it started the bike.

Obviously the problem is heat related.  The question I have are:

1. I have the new supposedly improved rectifier with the fins and the heat shield.  Are the 2004 rectifiers defective as well?

2. As Hondatech stated very early in this thread, if it is the rectifier shutting down when hot and not letting the battery charge, why would the batterry regain power once it is cooled down after the engine has been turned off? 

3. Has anyone found a cure for this?  I am a member of 600rr.net and a thread regarding this problem pops up every so often but nobody seems to have any concrete solution for it.

4. Since I didn't have this problem for 2 1/2 years, is the battery starting to go bad?  Should I replace it?  The thing is, the battery seems to be in full health when it is cold, which is the total opposite of what usually occurs with old batteries.

[maskale]

You could get the battery tested at your auto parts store for free just to eliminate that.
When batteries run low you can let them set a while and they may get enough juice to crank the bike. Kind of like if you leave your car lights on and then try to start it but it wont, you turn the lights off let it set and it may start after a hour of setting. Other than that I dont know, I have not had this problem.  But Fret will love you for using the search function. Fill out the intro and stick around bro.

[BoraBora]

You could get the battery tested at your auto parts store for free just to eliminate that.
When batteries run low you can let them set a while and they may get enough juice to crank the bike. Kind of like if you leave your car lights on and then try to start it but it wont, you turn the lights off let it set and it may start after a hour of setting. Other than that I dont know, I have not had this problem.  But Fret will love you for using the search function. Fill out the intro and stick around bro.

Thanks dude.  I'm going to pull the battery and check the water level.  I keep it charged all the time on the Battery Tender and it goes on green as soon as I hook it up so I think the battery is OK....unless there is a reason that a battery that is starting to deteriorate only shows signs of weakness when the bike is hot??

Regardless, based on all the posts here as well as on 600rr.net, this is a common problem.  The bike can sit for a week and in the middle of a 20 degree day, start up instantly.  But when it gets hot, it doesn't start.....something is not right here.  Have any of you guys that have posted in the last 9 pages including badkarma ever get this issue resolved?  Anybody get anywhere with Honda?

[cbr600rr_blue]

I have a 2004 CBR600RR.  I have had it since I bought it new in January '04.  It has the new style rectifier with the cooling fins and the heat shield.  I always ride with the high beams on.  I have never had starting issues until September of 2006. 

I rode about 30 miles, on the highway, got off, was stuck in slow moving traffic for about 10 minutes, then pulled into a gas station.  The ambient temp was about 80 and the bike's gauge read about 210.
After filling up with gas, I pushed the starter to be greeted by a very slow crank.  Too slow to crank the engine over.  I pushed the bike out of the way to the side and tried again.  The starter would not turn anymore.  I looked at the lights and they were bright.  I hit the horn and it was loud.  I thought that was weird.
Anyway, I push started it and rode 30 miles back home on the highway.  I pulled into my garage, turned the bike off, then tried to restart it.  The starter would not turn. 
A few hours later, I went to try to start the bike and it turned over like it had a brand new battery.

The weather cooled down after that and I never had any starting issues after that.  Then it happened once with the temp at about 195.  The starter cranked very slow but it started the bike.

Obviously the problem is heat related.  The question I have are:

1. I have the new supposedly improved rectifier with the fins and the heat shield.  Are the 2004 rectifiers defective as well?

2. As Hondatech stated very early in this thread, if it is the rectifier shutting down when hot and not letting the battery charge, why would the batterry regain power once it is cooled down after the engine has been turned off? 

3. Has anyone found a cure for this?  I am a member of 600rr.net and a thread regarding this problem pops up every so often but nobody seems to have any concrete solution for it.

4. Since I didn't have this problem for 2 1/2 years, is the battery starting to go bad?  Should I replace it?  The thing is, the battery seems to be in full health when it is cold, which is the total opposite of what usually occurs with old batteries.

It is quite some time already. Don't know if anyone got solution for this issue. Mine RR5 is getting worse right now. 600rr.net does not seem to have solution as well. Why are honda bikes so bad nowadays?