Factory (standard) suspension settings.

[Fretless33]

With all the recent suspension discussions, I thought I'd post up the factory settings:

Front standard compression setting: 2 turns out from full hard
Front preload standard position: 14mm (0.6 in) 4th groove from top of fork bolt
Front rebound standard position: 2-1/2 turns out from full hard

Rear standard compression setting: 7 clicks out from full hard
Rear preload standard position: #3
Rear rebound standard position: 1-3/4 turns out from full hard

[bboynicku]

THANKS!!!

oh, anyone around 160lbs?? What settings do yall use for the track?

[JQrr]

I think I heard that stock settings are set for 165lb rider.

[Ozjack]

I think I heard that stock settings are set for 165lb rider.

Yes, but for road riding at road speeds(seriously!!).
These settngs are perfect for commuting, but not much else(potholes are even smoothed out with stock settings )
However, anything over the speed limit will result in the chassis not being able to cope with such force.
I found that by riding at high speed and in racing conditions, the RR has a few faults.
Firstly, the bike will squat,or wallow, under hard accelleration and  fast sweepers. It needs more Compression to slow the shock movement on the way down(try 2 clicks more), as well as added Rebound to damp the spring on the way back up(1/2 turn added will suffice-any more and it will feel too solid).
For my weight(60kg/120lbs), setting 4 for rear preload will jack the back up nicely, making turn-ins easier and allowing the nose to follow a tighter line on hard exits.

For the Forks, the standard settings allow the bike to DIVE under even "firm" braking, let alone hard. Compression increased by 1/2 a turn reduces this affect dramatically, but will also need 1/2 a turn more Rebound to stop the frond sling-shotting back up after the lever is released.
These settings also have the added benefit of allowing the bike to turn FASTER into corners, as the forks will not be extended as far before you enter the corner after the brakes are released.
Front preload should only be added if you are bottoming out the forks(from your weight) or need to brake HARD over BUMPS(so the forks can still do their job while already compressed by braking).
Therefore, the best settings Ive found for the `04 bike on track should be the whereabouts of;

Rear shock
Preload- setting 4
Rebound- 1 1/4 turns out from full IN
Compression- 5 clicks out from full IN

Forks
Preload- 4 lines showing(stock) is fine, but will need more if you are heavier(eg 1 line less showing for each 30lbs heavier than 120lbs)
Rebound- 2 turns out from full IN
Compression- 1 1/2 turns out from full IN

These settings are only for the 04 model CBR, If the same /similar problems occur with the 05, the same tactics can be used as stated above.

[alon]

you guys gotta help me out
i'm 210 lbs and the bike seem a little soft
i dont do track day yet but i go pretty fast most of the time
any help with the setting will be great.. thank's

[Ozjack]

You need to see a suspension specialist to buy stiffer springs. You are too heavy for this bike even for road riding.
No set-up on the standard suspension will make the bike better. I feel for you man, you really are`nt getting the best out of this bike on stock suspension-there`s simply too much force for the springs to handle any real speed, let alone bumps in the road as well.
Maybe for now, set the rear shock to setting 6 for preload.
The front should be all the way in for preload. the damping will only make the bike solid over bumps, so theres no real point adjusting that(rebound & compression) until you have stiffer springs.
This is only my OPINION and you should make up your own mind on what you would like to do with your bike.

[alon]

thats bad to hear
do you know how much thay go for ?
or maybe i should of goten a liter bike?

[JQrr]

He said the suspension is too weak for your weight.  600 is more than enough to handle your weight.

[Ozjack]

Yeah, that`s right- a 600 is more than capable of taking you to speeds you`d never think possible. However, it will handle 10 times better with suspension desinged for YOUR weight. It will stop better, accellerate faster/better and will all round FEEL fantastic. Usually, quality suspension components will cost lots. An Ohlins(which is what im actually thinking of upgrading to from stock) or similar-front and rear-will cost you around AUS$2500(maybe $1800US-whats the friggin conversion these days ) but it depends on how serious you are about riding/performance. maybe the stock suspension is okay for you if you feel there is nothing wrong with it? If you dont consider doing trackdays maybe just leave it stock-you dont need suspension upgrades for the street because you simply dont corner as hard(but it does benefit having race suspension when REALLY givin` it shit through road twisties ). Spending that much just wouldn`t justify it for street use only because you wouldn`t be pushing it hard enough to even notice, what with all the stoplights/pedestrians and such.
You HAVE chosen the right bike Alon, but Honda did not put right suspension components for YOU. A litre bike will have the same suspension problems. Use the money you saved from buying a 1000 to spend on suspension and you`ll be a really happy man

MMMMMMMmmmmmmmmmmmm..Ohlins

[alon]

thanks a lot for the help i'll try to do what you said with the rear suspension
i'll let you know how it go's

[alon]

hi i was doing some thinking and i dont really have the money right now for better suspensions
do you have any advice about how i can make it better in hard riding in the street with stock suspension
you helpet me with the rear , and you said to not tuch the compression and rebound in the front one's
 does it stil apply if i leave them stock?
 again.. thank you for the help

[Ozjack]

Turn the compression(on top of the forks) one whole turn clockwise on each side(increasing compression). Make sure they have symmetrical settings.
Rebound(at the bottom of the forks) should be turned one whole turn forwards as well(increasing rebound). Make sure both forks have symmetrical settings.
The preload should have NO rings showing above the fork top-as in FULL preload for front. Make sure settings are symmetrical.
This will make the bike HANDLE better, but will not cope with bumps in the road and can make the bike feel too solid and the wheels can "skip" or lose traction over bumps. Buying new suspension just means it HANDLES superbly, as WELL as cope with the bumps(which the stock suspension won`t do).

The rear should have Rebound turned one full turn clockwise(increasing rebound).
Rear compression should be turned about 2 1/2-3 clicks clockwise more than stock(increasing compression).

Your bike should now be near it`s optimum for your weight, as long as you stay away from the bumps

However, I really dont think that just because your suspension is near its optimum, the BIKE will handle at IT`S optimum. Only new suspension components can really unleash its cornering/braking/accellerating and chassis abilities 

[alon]

thank's 4 the advice i'll go do the ajusment
 go for a ride and let you know

[alon]

hi just got back from riding
the bike feels a lot better' i forgot to say that i have a 05 model
so the rear comprission is by clicks not turns so insted of giv ing it 2.5-3 turns i gave it 2 clicks
and the front preload i didnt take it all the way in i just gave it 2 turns,
becouse i live in an area with really fuckt up roads
 any way thank's 4 looking out bro

[Ozjack]

Great, you now have a suspension set-up that suits YOU
It always feels like you really "own" the bike more when its set up properly for you
It has become your baby